TOP 5 – June 2016

The Wine Genius tasting team have been busily tasting and reviewing. The ‘Top 5′ are carefully selected as either the highest quality, or most interesting / surprising wines tasting over the past 30 days. Here is what we like:

A. Rodda Smith Vineyard Chardonnay, 2015
Certainly one of the Best Chardonnays tasted over the past 12 months. This brightly lit gem is complex, balanced and complete. Overwhelmingly varietal, with savoury and floral tones all wound around melon, peach and lime. Textural palate structure is achieved with considerable fruit concentrations, finishing with smoked meats, nuts and citrus acidity. 97 Points, view winery.

Moorilla Cloth Label White 2013
Attractive and deeply fruited, yet remaining fine and floral. Red cherries, dark plum and musk floral tones begin to set the picture. With silky tannins, considerable berry concentration and ample acidity, this Mornington gem will continue to flesh-out with a little more time in bottle. 95 Points, view winery.

10 Minutes by Tractor Pinot Noir 2014
Light garnet in colour, offering spiced plum, mulberry and lifted violets. An elegant and mouth-watering example of great Mornington Peninsula pinot noir. Dark currants and mocha, with fine supple tannins. Finishing with forward and vibrant acidity, view winery. 95 Points, view winery.

Curly Flat ‘ The Curly’ Chardonnay 2013
Bright golden in hue. A very reserved style that currently only hints at its potential. Intriguing nuances of nougat and praline underpinned by apple and citrus fruits plus classy but reserved oak. Acid driven and full bodied it shows exceptional concentration and length but remains unexpressed. It will be fascinating to see how this wine evolves over the next decade and more. 95 Points, view winery.

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Bright deep ruby hue and initially showing quite ripe and fleshy fruit. But underneath lie brooding and  dense Cabernet aromatics – ripe blackberry, cedar and gravel with well integrated new French oak. In the mouth the wine is dry, full bodied, with significant but beautifully fine grained tannins that drive a typically elegant Moss Wood finish. It needs time but is certainly one of the finer Moss Wood Cabernet releases. 97 Points, view winery.

Fresh Approach


Australia’s wine industry is famous around the world for innovation. From the Vineyard to the bottle we have long questioned the ways of the past but has the country who brought you wine in a box perhaps gone too far?

When dining out or just visiting a bar enjoying a simple glass of wine can be fraught with danger. Do you take a gamble and hope the wine you’re about to order comes from a fresh bottle or at least one that was opened recently? Too many times I’ve been served a wine in substandard condition, oxidised and stale, barely drinkable. 

Across Australia and in the U.S. many venues are now investing in tap wine systems. Technology has improved greatly and from the few wines I’ve tasted I would be lying if I could taste any difference.

Like the screw cap, originally this method of serving wine was aimed at the budget conscious. Now however we are seeing a better quality of wine on offer that has no wastage and arrives fresh into the consumer’s glass every time.

As we strive as an industry to get wine to consumers in better condition this could well be the answer.

Written by Adrian Marchioro

Decanter Banter


An often debated topic is the process of aerating or decanting wine. When should I, with Whites or Reds, Young or old what are the rules or guidelines?

When I started serving wine we decanted most wines based on the price. Anything sub $100 was poured into the glass. Anything over $100 was presented, tasted then decanted at the table over a flame so as to see the sediment and ensure none left the bottle. This theatrical process was completed long and slow in one smooth movement allowing the wine to aerate gently down the inside of the decanter.

Today there are many gadgets and devices that have been devised to hopefully achieve the same result without the hazard of flame or spillage. Some may appear a little primitive and perhaps even violent in their approach but the proof is in the resulting improvement in the wine.

So, when to decant? Most wines benefit from being splashed around and resuscitated a little. I’ve decanted everything from aged Chardonnays to young Coonawarra Cabernets and all in my opinion have shown an improvement. Decanters are a valuable wine accessory that will ensure your most precious of wines are presented and consumed at their best.

Written by Adrian Marchioro

 

Download the Wine Genius App

The Wine Genius app is your best guide to wine touring, or to simply deepen your knowledge any Australian winery or wine regions. Wine Genius was established in 2013 by a dedicated team of wine professionals, later that year they released www.winegenius.com. Wine Genius is one of the fastest growing wine content websites in Australia.

Download for Apple devices – click here

Download for Android devices – click here
 

What’s On! October 2015

Royal Melbourne Wine Show – Friday 16th October
Undoubtedly a premier event on the Australian wine calendar; tickets are still available so book your placefor the tasting and lunch through Wine Communicators of Australia <click here>

Orange Wine Show and Festival – 13th October – November 1st
The Orange Festival and Wine Show celebrates the wide array of culinary, cultural and vinous success of the Orange region. Click here for more information <read more>

Wine and Cheese Fest – 25th October
Set on the stunning shores of Williamstown (Victoria), taste your way through a variety of wine and cheese matches with the cheese and winemakers. www.wineandcheesefest.com.au

Victoria Wine Show and Dinner – 11th November
Hosted at the beautiful Mitchelton Winery (1 hour from Melbourne); public tasting from 10am Wednesday 11th November followed by presentation lunch at 12:30. Learn more at www.victorianwinesshow.com.au

















TOP 5 – October 2015

The Wine Genius tasting team have been busily tasting and reviewing. The ‘Top 5′ are carefully selected as either the highest quality, or most interesting / surprising wines tasting over the past 30 days. Here is what we like:

Vasse Felix, Heytesbury Chardonnay, 2014
Pale golden hue. Complex very savoury and reserved style – peach melon and citrus fruits with smoky barrel ferment plus new oak vanillin. Dry and full with creamy texture – complex but still very closed with a long, drying finish. 95 Points, view winery.

Willow Creek, WCV Pinot Noir, 2013
Attractive and deeply fruited, yet remaining fine and floral. Red cherries, dark plum and musk floral tones begin to set the picture. With silky tannins, considerable berry concentration and ample acidity, this Mornington gem will continue to flesh-out with a little more time in bottle. 95 Points, view winery.

Juniper Estate, Shiraz, 2012
An excellent wine at half the price, a long-term red with and ample fruit intensity and rustic charm. Finely crafted by the Grampians Estate team, offering blackberries, clove and nuances of Asian spice and white pepper. Firm tannins, polished oak and bright acidity all bode well for the longevity of this complex Shiraz. 94 Points, view winery.

Penfolds, Bin 51 Riesling, 2015
Pale colour with youthful green tinge. Very pretty Eden aromatics of lime and bath salts that are bright, pristine and pure. Its dry and fresh but not angular with a slight creaminess to the texture and fine poise finishing long and fine. Very impressive release under this label. 93 Points, view winery.

Penfolds, Yattarna Chardonnay, 2013
Pale golden hue and already showing its class with green apple, floral and lemony fruits, subtle nougat and high quality oak all beautifully intertwined. Quite acid driven yet underpinned by reserved fruit power that will unfold over the next decade finishing with fine detail, seamless balance and superb length. 95 Points, view winery.

 

Pinot Passion

In the world of wine there are few varieties more revered than Pinot Noir. When made well, the allure of bright fruit and earthy aromas along with fine, elegant and velvety tannins ensure you will forever freely part with your hard earned dollars. But why does Pinot Noir often cost more than other varieties?

From its birthplace of Burgundy or the great regions in our own back yard such as the Yarra Valley, Geelong and Mornington producers are striving to create the finest of wines. Suitable sites are selected with care, there’s a broad selection of expensive cuttings to choose from, and vineyards are trellised closer and lower requiring a strong back and hours of dedication. Vineyard yields are low and then you have complex and sophisticated wine making practices to pay for.

Vignerons who embark on this endeavour have a level of dedication to the variety that borders on obsession, as do the consumers. I’ve tasted hundreds over the years and when you find a truly outstanding example the experience can be likened to reacquainting yourself with an old friend. Don’t be afraid to stretch your budget as you will be rewarded with a truly great wine tasting experience.

Written by Adrian Marchioro

 

Winery Samples













All samples can be sent to:
Wine Genius
PO BOX 2035
Ivanhoe East, 3079

We taste everything!
We know that many wineries are tired of sending sample to reviewers who do not taste their wines. At Wine Genius, one of our tasting team will review your wine(s), and it is generally accomplished within 30 days of receiving the sample.

We send you your reviews!
Whether our review is glowing, or not so glowing, once a sample is tasted, we will email you your wine’s review. You are free to use this in any manner you wish; we only ask that you credit the review to www.winegenius.com..

We re-taste!
If you believe that your wine has received a review that does not represent what is in the bottle, you can resubmit the wine and it will be tasted again.

Back Vintages
We are not only interested in current release wines. Obviously the majority of the searches at www.winegenius.com will be for current releases, however many are for back vintages. Therefore, feel free to send samples of your older wines and we will review them also.

We love information!
Wine Genius is not only about reviews, it is a more complete wine experience. We would encourage all wineries to send label images, logos, and any imagery that will enhance your presence at www.winegenius.com (JPEG or PNG, less than 300kb). In addition to imagery, we create a description of the wine brand.  This is general information about the vineyard, history, people, signature wines and relevance within the winery; please send us any information that may help Wine Genius create a better description of your wine brand to [email protected].



Hunter Valley Vintage 2014

Impressively, the Hunter Valley Wine and Tourism Association recently hosted an event in which I was given the opportunity to gain a greater understanding of their 2014 vintage, and to taste a number of the gold medal wines from their regional show (held in August). A panel of Hunter Valley experts were on hand to guide their audience, including:

–          Andrew Thomas (Owner & Winemaker) Andrew Thomas Wines,
–          Andrew Spinaze (Chief Winemaker) Tyrrell’s Wines,
–          Gwyn Olsen (Chief Winemaker) Briar Ridge, and
–          Mike De Iuliis (Owner & Winemaker) De Iuliis Wines.

With below-average Winter/Spring rain, and more sunshine than recent vintages (combined with periods of severe heat), most Hunter Valley vineyards were able to attain a moderate crop of clean ripe fruit. This appears to have resulted in a vintage of excellent standard wines, both white and red.

Though no 2014 reds are ready to taste, the semillon’s quality was unquestionable. The vintage provided a sizable crop with good levels of sugar and acidity. Late in the season, a period of 4 days over 38 degrees greatly accelerated ripening, however, this heat-wave does not seem to have adversely effected the finesse and charm that slow-ripen fruit generally affords.

In addition to discussing the vintage and the gold medal wines, the evolving style of Hunter Valley wines was examined.  “Gone are the days of barnyard and sweaty saddle”, and “no longer are winemaking or viticultural decisions made to accommodate individual wine critics” (Andrew Thomas). Wines are being made that best suit the region, the varieties that it produces, and to represent the nuances of each particular vintage. But, how does this shift in style influence the notable aging capability of Hunter Valley semillon? As a consequence of the swing towards a more ‘contemporary’ style, “the new wave of Hunter Semillon may not age as well as their predecessors; however, they will be considerably more approachable and enjoyable when young” (Andrew Thomas). Interestingly, “the wine’s acid does not age Hunter Valley semillon, it’s the chemistry within the fruit … of which acid is only one component” (Andrew Spinaze).   

Congratulations and thanks must be given to the Hunter Valley Wine and Tourism Association, and to Andrew, Gwyn, Andrew and Mike for creating, and supporting, such an informative and unique event. I can’t wait for the 2015 Hunter Valley event.

For more information on the Hunter Valley Wines and Tourism visit: http://www.winecountry.com.au/



The emerging advantage of Spanish grapevines





Viticulture has been a part of Spain for millenia. Evidence shows that vines were growing in the Iberian Peninsula as far back as the Tertiary period (65 million to 2.6 million years ago!), but the real wine history and culture began after the Romans made the Peninsula part of the Roman Empire. Spain has over 400 indigenous grape varieties, though 80 percent of the country’s wine production is from only 20 grapes – including the reds Tempranillo, Garnacha (Grenache), Graciano and Mataro (Mourvedre); the whites Albariño, Palomino, Airen, Verdejo and Macabeo; and the three cava grapes Parellada, Xarel·lo, and Cariñena. Not all are cultivated in Australia.

While it is far from the whole story, it certainly begins with Tempranillo – Spain’s great red grape. Renowned for the fine red wines of the high-altitude region of Rioja and even higher Ribera del Duero, it is actually widely planted throughout Spain. Nowhere else, though, does it reach such stellar quality levels.

It has been said that if James Busby, the so-called ‘father’ of the Australian wine industry, had introduced Tempranillo to Australian viticulture in the 1820s instead of Shiraz, it might have all been so different, that Australians would be drinking Tempranillo in its place. This is unlikely. It is true that Shiraz makes up about 25% of the Australian national vineyard, but being a mid-season ripener with moderate acidity, it is climatically accommodating. Tempranillo is a low acid grape and an early ripener: in fact the name is the diminutive of the Spanish temprano (meaning ‘early’), a reference to the fact it ripens several weeks earlier than most Spanish red grapes. And where the acidity is too low a wine will taste unbalanced and flabby. In other words, Shiraz is able to produce wines of genuine fineness and distinction in a wider range of climatic conditions than can Tempranillo (think very cool climate Glaetzer-Dixon Mon Pere Shiraz from Tasmania, through cool Mount Langi Ghiran from Grampians to warm climate Torbreck The Laird from Barossa).

So while Tempranillo may not be quite as versatile as Shiraz, this is not to suggest it can’t express a range of variations. At its best Tempranillo exhibits attractive blueberry and strawberry notes in youth and then ranges across spice, tobacco and leather characters. In many respects the Gran Riserva level of Spain’s Rioja can have much in common with Pinot Noir, both being wines of real finesse. In Rioja the Tempranillo is traditionally blended with Garnacha (Grenache) for body and perhaps Mazuela (Carignan) for acidity as well as Graciano for colour and aroma. The higher altitude of Ribera del Duero allows it to retain higher acidity from cold nights during the growing season which is why it is seen there as a single varietal.

Australian winegrowers are working hard to get a handle on Tempranillo. At last count there were 341 Australian winegrowers sufficiently convinced it has a valuable place here to give it a try. Convincing cool climate expressions are being made by Peter Leske at La Linea (Adelaide Hills), Mount Majura (Canberra District) and most especially Mayford (Alpine Valleys in Victoria). It is also found at Gemtree and d’Arenberg in McLaren Vale, Tar & Roses in Heathcote/Alpine Valleys and Topper’s Mountain in New England.

Garnacha (Grenache), a common Tempranillo blending partner in Rioja, is very widely cultivated in Australia. Because it ripens late in the season it needs fairly warm climates to best express its characteristic ripe, sweet, red fruit notes. It accumulates a high level of sugar in the berries which results in high alcohol wines. In France it is widely cultivated in the warm southern Rhône Valley and forms the substantial, and sometimes only, component of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is used similarly in Australia where it is often blended with Shiraz and Mataro (Monastrell/Mourvèdre) to produce GSM blends. Notable single varietal expressions include Jasper Hill and Heathcote Estate (Heathcote); Torbreck, Turkey Flat and Yalumba in the Barossa; and d’Arenberg in McLaren Vale. Notable GSM blends are produced by Rockford (Moppa Springs), Charlie Melton (‘Nine Popes’), Teusner, Spinifex, Glaetzer, S.C. Pannell and Henschke. Mataro figures in some of these wines because it provides useful structural elements: deeper colour, lifted aroma, more tannins and higher acidity. And single varietal bottlings of Mataro by Caillard, Tim Smith and Hewitson, all from the Barossa, can also be found and are worth seeking out.

Some Graciano is cultivated in Australia and it is mainly employed as a blending partner. One producer successfully bottling it as a single varietal is Xanadu in Margaret River. Where Graciano can appear hard and acidic on its own, here the tannins are softened and the wine is smooth and balanced. Mencía is another indigenous red Spanish variety of growing importance but currently just a footnote in the Australian viticultural context. Responsible for the rediscovered ‘mountain wines’ of northwest Spain (Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra), the resulting wines are frequently excellent: dense, concentrated and complex with fine tannic structure. The first vineyard in Australia was established by Peter Leske (La Linea) in the Adelaide Hills and it will coming online within the next year or so. Until the vines are mature the fruit will be used for Rosé.

There has been less success in Australia with Spanish white varieties. Palomino is the Sherry variety, of which there is some at Seppeltsfield (Barossa) for use in their fortified wines. What was thought to have been the fashionable Albariño from Spain’s Galicia turns out to have been Savagnin from France’s Jura region. Some Verdejo has been established by Trentham Estate (Murray Darling) and the results are creditable. From Spain’s Rueda – and not to be confused with Verdelho – Verdejo is an aromatic but savoury variety. Trentham Estate’s bottling is soft, round and well worth seeking out as an alternative to the ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc.